Atomstack P9 & Accessories




Chemicals
Atomstack P9 AlieXpress
Atomstack P9 Ebay
Atomstack P9 Amazon



220 X axis x 250Y axis
Y axis is perpendicular to control box.

Atomstack
Has filtering lens for reflective surfaces.

Enclosure

Exhaust

Materials
wood, bamboo, cardboard, plastic, leather, PCB board, alumina, non-reflective electroplated and lacquered metal, 304 mirror stainless steel, glass, ceramic, cotton cloth, slate
Air Assist
P9 air assist.

Perforated Steel Plate
Magnets
Speed Square



On stainless steel, there is no need for pretreatment.
You can get visible marks on the surface,
but if you want to get darker marks,
 it is better to use a special compound.
Usually, it is called metal marking spray.
A thin and even coat of spray is applied to the metal.
 After that, the laser beams react with this compound and leave a darker mark that is more visible.



Titanium Dioxide ( Glass  Etching)
Molybdenum Disulfide
CRC Dry 084 for EtMoly 3ching Stainless Steel Ebay
CRC3084 Amazon
Tips


Borax  
Denatured Alcohol
Gray Primer (spray on metal plate for acrylic etching)
Alcohol Mix with Tempera Paint
Fine Mist Spray Bottle
Air Brush
Brilliance Spray BL10M1... Not Recomended by Mfg. But seems to work.
Cermark $$$
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On stainless steel, there is no need for pretreatment. You can get visible marks on the surface, but if you want to get darker marks, it is better to use a special compound. Usually, it is called metal marking spray. A thin and even coat of spray is applied to the metal. After that, the laser beams react with this compound and leave a darker mark that is more visible.



CRC tips

1. 2 coats really is necessary to get a darker finish. It dries quickly though and you can prep multiple items at one time and just have them staged/prepped for the laser.
2. Each laser is different, so I can't really give you suggestions on speed/power levels. Do some practice burns on the product you're going to use. We had to figure out a power level that etched the flasks without warping the finished product (cheap thin-walled flasks).
3. Cleanup. A spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol works great. Spray it, then use a paper towel to wipe the moly off initially. Follow up with another light mist and a cloth shop towel. Rinse with water and double check the product for any remaining moly. Spray isopropyl on a paper towel and cleanup any missed spots of moly.
4. Finish: This will not give you a clean black finish like like laser bond spray. Instead it will give you an etched-looking dark grey finish. I actually liked this better than the laser bond as it looks more etched vs. looking like a acrylic wrap on the flasks.

Other tips.
Build a jig either on your laser bed or on some scrap wood if you're going to have to create your product in mass.