raspberry_propagation

Raspberry Propagation

Black or purple raspberries and some blackberry varieties are propagated by “tip layering” wherein the tip of the cane is buried in 2-4 inches (5-10 cm.) of soil. The tip then forms its own root system. The following spring, the new raspberry propagation is then separated from the parent, leaving 6 inches (15 cm.) of the old cane attached. This portion is referred to as “the handle” and should be snipped off at soil level to reduce any potential disease from carrying over.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Propagating Raspberries: Can You Grow A Raspberry Plant From Cuttings https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/raspberry/propagating-raspberries.htm

Calendar:
Do not use floracanes whic are this year's fruit bearing vines.
Use Suckers or Primocanes.
New Growth

Primocanes offsets
Primocane Cuttings (new growth) Spring through August Tail end of winter. -
Root Cuttings August?

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Cuttings & Primocanes:
Raspberry plants can be grown from cuttings. ...
Red raspberry plant propagation comes from primocanes,
or raspberry suckers, and may be transplanted in the spring
when they are 5-8 inches (12-20 cm.) tall.
The suckers come up from the roots and
these root divisions can be cut through with a sharp spade and separated.

Primocane Cuttings: Scarring,

Root Cuttings:
August 5th 2 week to propagate

Layering: Black or purple raspberries and some blackberry varieties are propagated by “tip layering” wherein
the tip of the cane is buried in 2-4 inches (5-10 cm.) of soil. The tip then forms its own root system.
The following spring, the new raspberry propagation is then separated from the parent, leaving
6 inches (15 cm.) of the old cane attached. This portion is referred to as “the handle” and should
be snipped off at soil level to reduce any potential disease from carrying over.

1 Choose a healthy young cane that is free of disease and insect infestation for layering in fall.

2 Wound the stem 12 inches from the growth tip by cutting into the cane with a sharp knife or scraping off about an inch of the outer layer of tissue. Make cuts at an angle and don't cut deeper than half the diameter of the stem.

3 Pull the stem to the ground, taking note of the spot where the wound touches the soil. Dig a short, shallow trench no more than 3 inches deep where the wound will touch the ground.

4 Place the wounded part of the stem in the hole and cover it with soil. Place a stone on top of the soil. The stone should be just large enough to hold the stem in place. At least 6 inches of the stem tip should remain above ground. Water the layered area thoroughly.

5 Cut the stem that attaches the new plant to its parent plant the following spring. Dig up the new plant and transplant it to a permanent location.

Stem Cuttings

Remove sections of raspberry stem in late summer, preferably early in the morning when they are hydrated. Select stems that snap when you bend them; they are in the appropriate stage of development for cuttings.
Prune the stems into 3- to 6-inch cuttings with clean, sharp pruning shears. Include at least two leaf-nodes in each cutting and one inch of stem below the lower nodes. Nodes are the small swellings on the stems where leaves emerge. Remove the lower leaves and score the bottom tip of each cutting by slicing off several thin strips of outer bark.
Dip the stems in water, then in rooting hormone powder, covering the wounds made when you removed the lower leaves. Plant the cuttings in a planting tray in a mixture of perlite and soilless mix. Bury the lower leaf nodes but leave the top set of leaves above ground. When all cuttings are planted, put the tray in a plastic bag to hold in moisture, and place in a sheltered location.
Transplant each cutting when roots appear through the holes in the bottom of the tray. Plant each in a 1-quart container filled with soil and keep moist. Transplant in spring to a permanent location.

Root Cuttings

Unearth a portion of the roots of a raspberry plant during its dormant period, generally between November and February. Trace back the roots before you cut them to be certain they belong to the raspberry plant.
Trim off young, vigorous rootlets as thick as a pencil. Cut into 3-inch sections. Use your pruners to straight-cut the top end of each root section, the part that was nearest to the parent; trim the bottom end of the root cutting on a diagonal. Cover the parent plant's exposed roots with soil once again.
Bury the root cuttings upright in a container of damp potting mix. Place them so that the straight-cut ends are at soil level. Water them and place in a sheltered area out of direct sun. In three to four weeks, replant each cutting outdoors in garden soil. Proceed whether or not you see roots. Plant 12 inches apart directly in the soil, with the top of the cutting 2 inches below the soil surface. Alternatively, plant in a container in your garage or greenhouse.
Water the cuttings enough to keep the area moist. When shoots appear several months later, apply a water-soluble fertilizer. If you planted the cuttings indoors, transplant them in early spring to a permanent location.