Cable tie method?

Get tool for compressing
valves.

Valve Seals

Wire for retaining valves.
or C clips?

Seals

Valves are same for 22r 22rre 22 rec

VSS-92485-8

SS224

Fel-Pro $18.00

SS70598

VSS-92485-8

Use magnet to recover
valve keepers.

Slowly rotate engine to drop
valves to get spring off.

Don't use air as that it may cause issues with seal on engine.

Nylon rope 1/4" to make a tennis ball size lot inside cylinder

ong story short, I cut some spacers about the same height as the rocker arm assembly out of some 1/2" conduit that I had kicking around, and used them to run the head bolts back in and clamp the head down a bit once I'd removed the rocker assy.

ong story short, I cut some spacers about the same height as the rocker arm assembly out of some 1/2" conduit that I had kicking around, and used them to run the head bolts back in and clamp the head down a bit once I'd removed the rocker assy.

I did have to ream out the conduit a little bit to get it to slip over the head-to-rocker-assy dowels.

After I had the head good and clamped down with the bolts and spacers, I hooked up a compressor to a compression tester hose with the Schrader valve removed, and pressurized the first cylinder. Slipped on my shiny-new Carquest valve spring compressor, picked out the keepers, and off came the valve spring giving access to the seals.

The seals came off easy enough; the new ones going on were a little more fiddly. I only had the cylinders aired up to about 10PSI, so I couldn't press on the valve stem much without dropping it into the great black abyss of doom. I solved this by oiling up the seals so they would slide easier, and very carefully working them onto the stem, then gently pressing them on with a #3 common screwdriver.

Note: take a minute and plug all the oil passages in the head with rags or something, especially oh, say, that left rear drainage passage. It's just in the perfect spot to swallow a valve spring keeper if you were so clumsy as to drop one back there. DAMHIK.

Bottom line: I won't know for a few weeks if my oil consumption is down or not, but my little puff of smoke on takeoff is GONE!

The old seals were in rough shape, should've done them long ago.

And thus far, no sign of head gasket destruction.

Idle is much smoother, though how much of that is due to the new cam I can't say.

If I did it again, I would want a bit more pressure in the cylinders to hold the valves up - 10PSI was pretty weak. Not too much more though, no need to risk HG bustage. Even just 20PSI would make sliding the new seals on the valve stems way less sketchy, without going crazy with pressure.

Hope this helps someone in the future considering doing valve stem seals without pulling the head.

The seals came off easy enough; the new ones going on were a little more fiddly. I only had the cylinders aired up to about 10PSI, so I couldn't press on the valve stem much without dropping it into the great black abyss of doom. I solved this by oiling up the seals so they would slide easier, and very carefully working them onto the stem, then gently pressing them on with a #3 common screwdriver.

Best to not loosen head bolts . and drop pixto to clear spring.
Fixture to stop engine from going to far?

Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,688
Port Orchard, Washington

Remove keepers
Dual row timing chain upgrade?
Remove Cam technique to get to valves
xxx
Valve Springs

Drain coolant
Remove valve cover
remove plug
remove rocker arm
assembly
replace bolts with spacers?
Lock cranshaft put it gear

Loosen front bolt so head does not torque up
Remove bolts fronts
clean bolts and lubricate
rears
then centers

use string to kee p valve from dropping ?

place blanket under to catch keepers
ratchet starps ?
pressurize to 80lbs
compress
remove keepers with magnet
new keepers? vaseline to hold
locktite 454 on seal
torque head back down
Tightening order
fit lbs

new head bolts

Timing fix.

Should be
cam gear just before 12 o'clock
disy at #1
crank at 6 o'clock?

PS> You can look up info on this at engnbldr.com and 22reperformance.com and
probably one of the best, '4crawler.com', which will tell you the special instructions like
"NEVER torque the tensioner bolts more than 12#, EVER.",
"Did you clean your hands, VERY WELL?", and more detailed ones, of course,
regarding tricks to keeping the upper sprocket in place/still, as well as
"tape the tensioner in the depressed position while you get the cam sprocket back onto the cam"...
(that can be tough some times... it doesn't mean there's something wrong.
I had to turn the crank BACK a short distance to get some slack enough to get the sprocket back on the cam,... stuff like that.
peramtex ultra gray
VIdeo

Valve Keepers

Tools

link thread type

. INSTALL ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY
(a) Place the rocker arm assembly over the dowels on the
cylinder head.
(b) Install and tighten the head bolts gradually in three
passes in the sequence shown. Torque the bolts on
the final pass.
Torque: 78N–m (800kgf–cm, 58ft–Ibf).
Test torque prench on bolts
Loos

jsut did the head on my 22r, the torque spec is head bolts @ 58 ft/lbs....

my friends a mechanic and told me to torque them to 75 and i wont have any problems.. i didnt....
Bring them down to 20
Then 40
Then finally
Head Torquing 58 lbs to 75

Lube bolts

3 passes

front bolt 15 lbs

adjsut valves 8 intake and 12 exhaust
rotate 19 do rest.

new seals fell pro

1 Place the rocker arm assembly over the dowels on the cylinder head.
2 Install and tighten the head bolts gradually in 3 passes in the sequence shown.
3 Torque the bolts on the final pass.

Head bolts - 65 ft/lbs
Rods - 51 ft/lbs
Mains - 76 ft/lbs
Timing cover - 6mm bolts - 8 ft/lbs, 8mm bolts - 15 ft/lbs, 10mm bolts - 25 ft/lbs
Rear main seal housing - 15 ft/lbs
Cam bearing caps - 15 ft/lbs
Cam pulley bolt - 58 ft/lbs
Crank pully bolt - 116 ft/lbs
Flywheel to crank - 65 ft/lbs
Pressure plate to flywheel - 15 ft/lbs

Fydun

xxx

Video

Another way to do this is to pull the sparkplugs, bring whatever cylinder you are working on to TDC and then feed a length of rope into the plug hole. Be sure to a tie a fat knot in one end to prevent accidental disappearance to the inner depths. The rope fills the cumbustion chamber and prevent the valve from slipping down the guide..plus its soft and SOLID...aint gonna leak past your rings. When I did it I used a screw top valve spring compressor and a magnet to pull the keepers...rockers were a PIA to get out of the way. After doing 1st cylinder, extract the rope and move onto #4. After #4 cycle the engine and bring #2 and #3 up for their turn. Hemp rope works great btw. No quick job by any means...but a helluvalot quicker than head R&R.

Then I started noticing a little blue smoke from the tailpipe, and I found the spark plugs fouled with lots of deposits, so I realized the motor was burning oil.

I checked compression and found good pressure and uniformity in all four cylinders. Next, I wanted to try replacing the valve stem oil seals to reduce oil consumption, since valve seals are very inexpensive, but my factory manual only described replacement with the head removed. The rocker assembly can only be removed by removing the head bolts. I searched the internet, but I couldn�t find any way to replace the seals without removing the head - or at least without removing the head bolts. After I thought about it for awhile, I came up with a way to replace the seals - without removing the head bolts - that worked great for me, and I�m posting a description of the method here:

1. Set the emergency brake good and tight.

2. Remove valve cover and spark plugs.

3. Before you proceed further, make sure you have no distractions, clear your mind, and give this your full attention. If you lose your concentration, you may drop a valve down inside the cylinder and then you�ll suffer from much regret (and also humiliation if others are present) because you�ll have to remove the head. Stay focused.

4. Rotate crankshaft by hand with a wrench to top dead center (using timing marks). Find the cylinder that is at the top of the compression stroke (both valves closed with both cam lobes pointing down away from rockers). On that cylinder, carefully mark the position of the slots of the valve adjusters on the rockers with a sharp permanent marker so it will be easier to readjust the valves later.

5. Remove one of the valve adjusters.

6. Put the transmission in a forward gear (I used 3rd). Rotate the crankshaft by hand just past top dead center until it stops turning when the play in the drive train is taken up. Apply air pressure to the cylinder through a fitting on the spark plug hole (I used about 60 psi pressure). Compress one of the valve springs (the one under the rocker with the removed adjuster) with a valve spring compressor tool such as Item #909397 from NorthernTool.com ($12.99 plus shipping) - also found in your local auto parts store. Tap on top of the tool lightly with a hammer to free the spring retainer from the valve keepers, and remove the valve keepers (I used a pencil-sized magnet). Remove the valve spring compressor tool.

7. Release the air pressure on the cylinder. The valve will drop down a little bit until it rests on the top of the piston. Put the transmission in neutral. CAREFULLY and slowly rotate the crankshaft by hand a little farther past top dead center until the valve stem drops down far enough to allow removal of the valve spring from between the head and rocker. BE CAREFUL: If you rotate the crankshaft too far, the valve will fall down inside the cylinder. Slide the rocker over as far as it will go on the rocker shaft, and remove the valve spring retainer and then remove the spring.

{ use string? to bring the valve back up? or to keep valve fro droping?

8. Remove the old valve seal with a pair of pliers (I found that my exhaust valve seals were crumbling). Lube up the new seal with oil and slide it over the valve stem (the seals I purchased from Advance Auto Parts came with a nice plastic sleeve to use to protect the seal from damage by the valve keeper groove on the valve stem). Tap the seal very lightly around the outer edge (not on the lip) using a small piece of wood as a punch and a hammer until the seal is snugly seated on the valve guide.

9. Reinstall the valve spring and retainer. CAREFULLY rotate the crankshaft back to top dead center to lift up the valve stem. Using a thin piece of wood shim inserted between the coils of the valve spring, lever and lift the valve up until it is fully closed. The new seal will hold the valve in place.

10. Put the transmission in a forward gear. Rotate the crankshaft by hand just past top dead center until it stops turning when the play in the drive train is taken up. Apply air pressure to the cylinder to hold the valve in the closed position. Compress the valve spring with the tool, and install the valve keepers. Remove the valve spring compressor tool. Release the air pressure on the cylinder. Reinstall the valve adjuster and locknut on the rocker and check the clearance.

11. Repeat the process (Steps 5-10) for the other valve on the same cylinder.

12. Rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees (one half turn) so that another cylinder is at top dead center of the compression stroke.

13. Repeat the process (Steps 4-12) until all valve seals are replaced.

14. Reinstall spark plugs and valve cover.

15. Recheck valve clearances with the engine hot, as specified in the manual.

Good luck!

After 500 miles, it looks like my 22R hasn�t used a drop of oil. I think I�m good for at least another 100,000 miles on this engine.